Nigel Ip

A new fish and chip shop just opened on Bourdon Street…and it’s already going viral!

Open for six weeks only, The Bourdon Street Chippy is Lucy Sparrow’s latest installation on the premises of Lyndsey Ingram Gallery, where she exhibited The Bourdon Street Chemist in 2021 – my first experience of her work.

Renowned for her life-sized recreations of everyday spaces, crafted floor-to-ceiling in felt, the new installation transports visitors to their local fish and chip shop. Can you smell the grease in the air yet? I certainly did.

The attention to detail is mesmerising. As you come in from the street into the checkered interior, you are immediately faced with a massive sign advertising breakfast, lunch, and dinner options to eat in.

Should you wish to take a seat in one of the five cubicles, a fresh plate of fish and chips awaits you. It’s a little cramped but that’s a sign the food is good; just look at the walls lined with autographed celebrity portraits by the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Damien Hirst!

Hmm, I see a knife and fork but no napkin. Any salt and pepper? I guess I’ll ask at the till.

Past a neon sign saying ‘ORDER HERE’, the counter and frying station is a dimly-lit space assaulting your eyes with even more neon signs. A mandatory sign reminds you to inform them of any food allergies. Elsewhere, food safety certificates reassure you that everything is up to standard. And definitely do not feed the seagulls.

Behind the glass, a large piece of fried cod looks at you with a loving smile. So does the plaice, and the fuzzy fishcakes, even the saveloys, mushy peas, and Pukka pies!

Wait, I came here for salt and pepper. Actually, I’ll grab some ketchup and tartare sauce too. Damn, the gherkins in the jar look good too. Why is everything so cute?!!! Behind me, there’s a fully-stocked fridge with all sorts of soft drink.

As I pay for my items, a portion of chips wishes me a good day. Again, those damn eyes!

If you’ve never experienced one of Sparrow’s felt installations, this one is as good as any. Over 65,000 individually-crafted pieces are on view, including 15 distinct chip shapes. It’s charming, fun, and naturally very Instagrammable.

Next time, I’m taking friends.

The Bourdon Street Chippy (1 August – 14 September 2025) is at Lyndsey Ingram Gallery, London, https://lyndseyingram.com/